Why I keep going back to Europe's most underrated city
- Posted on August 6, 2026
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Why I keep going back to Europe's most underrated city
It may be 1,840ft above sea level, but it’s not often high on lists of European capitals to visit (Picture: Media Trading Ltd/Getty Images) People are often surprised when I tell them I am a frequent visitor to Bulgaria. It is true that with 343,000 British travellers touching down there in 2025, the Balkan country is nowhere close to being our most popular destination. That title goes to Spain, which consistently welcomes up to 18 million of us each year. But with mass tourism causing chaos for traditional holiday locations, eastern Europe is fast emerging as a rewarding region for travellers seeking authentic experiences without crowds or hefty price tags. And I believe the Bulgarian capital Sofia, with its hearty cuisine, fascinating history and bucket load of brilliantly cheap cultural attractions (including exceptional vineyards), tops the bill. Hear me out. A tram ride across Lions’ Bridge over the Vladaya River is a nice way to get your bearings in this small but mighty city (Picture: Getty Images) Sofia may be 1,840ft above sea level, but it’s not often high on lists of European capitals to visit. Still, this city of just over one million has plenty to offer including stunning mountain views, friendly locals and beers from (checks notes) £1.50. There is a seemingly endless supply of galleries, museums and churches, the star being St Alexander Nevsky cathedral and its golden onion domes. Built in the neo-Byzantine style of the 1840s, it is one of the largest Christian churches by volume in the world. Stick that in your guidebook. History buffs can take a ride on the immaculately clean metro to the Roman ruins at Serdika, which can be explored (time unlimited) for free. Culture vultures will be delighted by Sofia City Art Gallery (£3.50) and if you’ve got kids in tow, there is a Museum of Illusions (£5) and a generously-sized waterpark, about 20km from the city. The dazzling domes of St Alexander Nevsky cathedral (Picture: Getty Images) Sofia is trendy. Matcha bars and festivals are springing up apace, the best of which is probably A to Jazz, a free jazz event that this year hosted over 20 international artists. And thanks to its cradle in the Sofia Valley, right at the northern foot of Vitosha Mountain, you’re rarely without a spectacular view. The foothills are crisscrossed with forested footpaths and charming lodges, but it’s easy to get a bird’s eye vista from the top, too. Just hop on the 63 bus and you’ll be at the popular hiking spot of Golden Bridges in 45 minutes. Rila Mountain National Park is a stunner for summer hiking (Picture: Getty Images) Sofia is well stocked with a smorgasbord of good restaurants, including traditional tavernas serving up grandma’s-style portions. Raketa Rakia Bar is a must. Try Bulgarian delicacies such as tarator, a savoury yoghurt-based cucumber soup, and kebapche, a delicious spiced and grilled minced meat (typically pork) served with lyutenitsa, a tangy vegetable relish made with peppers and aubergines. It’s also a great place to try rakia, the fruit spirits or brandy indigenous to the region. With several flavours and strengths averaging around 40%, there is something for everyone, but drink responsibly, as it hits a lot harder than you would think. And don’t forget to book in advance. Spaces for walk-ins are very limited, and I have been turned away more than once. Moma is great for traditional grub with a modern twist, and Made In Blue is a local favourite for dining al fresco. @blonde.wandering 10 things to do in Sofia, Bulgaria 🇧🇬 • Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral • Vitosha Boulevard • St Nicholas Church • Ivan Vazov Theatre • Statue of Sofia • Serdica Roman ruins & Banya Bashi Mosque • Tram trip • Presidential Palace • Regional History Museum • Church of St George #sofiabulgaria #visitsofia #travelbulgaria #travellingeurope #bucketlist ♬ Love – The Something Specials & Taylor Olin A good place for a drink that is well-loved by locals is Tony’s, a genuine hidden gem next to Sofia University. They serve beer, cocktails, coffee and alcohol-free options, and all come with complimentary snacks such as cured meat or beer nuts. Nothing costs more than £3 or £4. Jazz Bar and Sputnik have good energy and similar prices. If you’d prefer to drink at home, a 2-litre beer from the supermarket will set you back around £1.50. Ready to book a flight? The essentials Getting there Ryanair and Wizz Air fly direct from London to Sofia from £41 return. Where to stay £: Art Hotel 158, doubles from £50 per night. ££: DOT Sofia, deluxe studios from £85 per night. £££: Hyatt Regency Hotel, doubles from £130 per night.