Sadie Whitelocks finds the perfect summer destination on an island of myth and legend (Picture: Dado Daniela/Getty Images) As the sea seems to blend seamlessly into a cloudless sky, it feels as though we are suspended in mid-air. ‘You’ve landed and reached heaven,’ hiking guide George Thyris says as we stand atop Mount Akramitis, the second-highest peak on Rhodes. I landed on the island – the fourth largest in Greece – the night before after an easy four-and-a-half-hour flight from London, and already it feels like I’m a world away. Sage, pine and wild herbs scent the balmy air, and apart from the occasional call of birds, there is an almost surreal silence. Maybe I have reached heaven, after all. From this lofty perch, the Aegean Sea stretches out in every direction, glistening more than 800 metres below. Archaeological sites are scattered across the landscape, while vineyards cling improbably to the island’s rugged slopes. Unlike other Greek islands I have visited – Crete and Mykonos among them – Rhodes is surprisingly green. Rhodes is blessed with extensive pine and cypress forests that thrive in the Mediterranean sun (Picture: Sadie Whitelocks) Around 40% of the island is covered in pine forest, cypress and Mediterranean scrub, giving it a lushness that feels unexpected in the Dodecanese. Although thousands of cruise passengers arrive daily in peak season, most heading straight for postcard-perfect Lindos or the UNESCO-listed Old Town, I have packed my walking shoes in search of something quieter. ‘The beauty of this island is that we have everything,’ George tells me. ‘Hiking, kayaking, yoga retreats, vineyards and year-round sunshine…whatever you want, there is an energy here that makes things happen.’ We reach the summit of Akramitis, passing a 15th-century chapel tucked into the hillside on the way up. From the top, we descend towards Fourni Beach, a golden-sand cove that feels almost undiscovered despite its beauty. There are only a handful of locals scattered along the shore. No tour buses, no cruise crowds. The dazzling waters of Anthony Quinn Bay, named for the Hollywood actor who shot a film on Rhodes in the 1960s (Picture: Getty Images) A quirky beach kantina serves inexpensive sandwiches, fries and excellent iced coffee. The sea is electric blue and the perfect reward after the climb. From Fourni, we continue inland to Embonas, the heart of Rhodes’ wine country. Here we stop at Savvas, a traditional taverna recommended by locals earlier in the day. The restaurant is enormous, capable of hosting more than 1,000 people for weddings and celebrations, yet the atmosphere remains deeply local. Plates arrive in waves: rich moussaka, stuffed vine leaves and juicy hunks of slow-cooked lamb. A few hours later we return to our base in Rhodes Old Town, the characterful In Camera Art Boutique Hotel. Hidden within the labyrinth of medieval streets, it strikes the perfect balance between homely and sophisticated. Dinner unfolds on an open-air terrace beneath our villa. The Old Town – despite being a UNESCO World Heritage Site – does not sleep early. Bars and restaurants remain busy until dawn. Rhodes medieval Old Town is a UNESCO-listed heritage site (Picture: Getty Images) The next morning we head south to Lindos, Rhodes’ most famous village. It is busy, yes, but undeniably beautiful. Whitewashed houses tumble down the hillside while donkeys still navigate narrow alleyways lined with boutiques and cafés. Climbing the stone steps to the 4th-century BC Acropolis of Lindos, we are rewarded with sweeping views over St Paul’s Bay and the glittering Aegean beyond. The ruins of the Temple of Athena Lindia sit dramatically on the clifftop while the coastline curves away below. Back in the village, we stop at Mavrikos, a family-run restaurant that feels like a pilgrimage site for food lovers. Owner Michalis Mavrikos explains that his grandfather founded the restaurant in 1912 after returning from working in Europe, bringing a cosmopolitan influence to local cuisine. Saint Paul’s Gate was built way back in the 15th Century, and still stands today (Picture: Joe Daniel Price/Getty Images) There are no Michelin-starred restaurants on Rhodes, but if there were, this would surely be a contender. Pink Floyd guitarist David Gilmour is said to be a regular. Dishes arrive like works of art: sardines on toast with chilli marmalade, calamari paired with beetroot and saffron purée, delicate tuna and meltingly soft liver with onions. Throughout the meal, local olive oil flows freely onto every plate. Rhodes itself feels like a place where everyone knows everyone. With a population of around 125,000 compared with millions of annual visitors, connections quickly emerge. Michalis tells us his wife is related to the family who own Savvas and pours us a glass of their Sauvignon Blanc. Hardly any place draws more visitors than Lindos, the postcard motif of Rhodes: a sea of whitewashed houses, crowned by a mighty castle complex (Picture: Getty Images) Alongside restaurants, the family also owns vineyards that produce wines served across the island. The crisp whites and pale rosés are particularly memorable. No Greek island trip is complete without time on the water, and Lindos Speed Boats offers the chance to explore the coastline properly. We spend the afternoon weaving between sea caves, rocky headlands, and hidden blue lagoons where the water is so clear it seems unreal. Back in Rhodes Old Town for our final evening, we stroll towards the sea wall where medieval windmills stand silhouetted against the sky. Here we find Swan by Kontiki, a floating bar that provides a sleek modern contrast to the ancient surroundings. The main beach beside the Acropolis of Lindos is one of the most beautiful places on the island (Picture: Craig Pershouse/Getty Images) For a final nightcap opposite our hotel, we end up at tucked-away restaurant Nireas, where charismatic owner Theo Tsikis shares stories of growing up in Rhodes Old Town.  A proud Rhodean, he still runs the business from his family home. Black-and-white photographs on the walls document the day a bomb blast tore through the property during the Second World War, a story passed down by his parents. Before flying home, we visit the Palace of the Grand Master, rebuilt during the Italian occupation, and Café Mevlana, a 14th-century coffee house in the Old Town that claims to be the oldest in Europe. As we leave, locals speak of an invisible energy that defines Rhodes – a sense of continuity between past and present, history and daily life. By the time I depart, it feels less like a description and more like something I have experienced. From stray cats weaving through sunlit alleys to vineyard-covered hills and ancient ruins, Rhodes carries a rhythm that lingers long after departure. For many visitors, it is simply a holiday destination. For those who venture beyond the beaches, it becomes something far harder to leave behind. The essentials Getting there EasyJet and British Airways operate direct flights from London Gatwick to Rhodes. For those travelling from outside the capital, Yotel Gatwick offers cheap and convenient pre-flight accommodation. Where to stay In Camera Art Boutique Hotel is located in Rhodes Old Town. Rooms start from £180 a night.  Sadie Whitelocks was a guest of the Rhodes Hotels Association and the Greek National Tourism Organisation, but don’t expect us to sugarcoat anything — our reviews are 100% independent.