Lonely Planet legend Tony Wheeler had been ‘meaning to’ travel there for years (Picture: Getty Images) Rugged coastlines, fertile farmlands, and ancient villages steeped in Viking history. This is what awaits in Orkney, an archipelago of some 70 islands scattered like jewels off Scotland’s north coast. Tony Wheeler, the founder of Lonely Planet, recently made the trip via the Caledonian Sleeper train after revealing he had been ‘meaning to go for years.’ He described the destination as a ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ experience. So, what’s all the fuss about? The ‘Scottish Pompeii’ The Heart of Neolithic Orkney was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. The sixth-largest island in Scotland, it is home to four monuments that date back over 5,000 years. Perhaps the most famous is Skara Brae, often referred to as the ‘Scottish Pompeii.’ The headland at the Brough of Birsay on the Orkney Islands (Picture: Getty Images) This stone-built Neolithic settlement is considered the best-preserved in Western Europe. Tony Wheeler describes it as the ‘oldest village in Europe,’ predating Stonehenge and the Pyramids. However, it’s a lot easier to navigate than its Italian namesake. Five houses are clustered together in a ‘final days’ state, complete with stone beds and dressing tables. One house has been reimagined so visitors can cosplay Neolithic life. Other sights to shout about include Maeshowe, a 2800 BC burial chamber, famous for Viking graffiti carved into its walls. At the winter solstice, the setting sun shines directly into the entry tunnel. There’s also the Ring of Brodgar, a ceremonial stone circle set within a dramatic natural amphitheatre, and the Stones of Stenness, one of the earliest stone circles in the British Isles. Practical magic Like Pendle Hill in Lancashire, Orkney is famous for its dark history of witch trials. Tony Wheeler, co-founder of Lonely Planet, in Madrid in 2023 (Picture: David Benito/Getty Images) Between the 16th and 18th centuries, over 70 islanders were accused of witchcraft — many were locked in St Magnus Cathedral’s dungeon and executed at Gallow Ha in Kirkwall, Orkney’s ‘capital.’ The most well-known trial took place in 1594. A woman named Alison Balfour refused to confess to an alleged plot against the Earl, so authorities tortured her family. Janet Forsyth, known as the ‘Westray Storm Witch’, was accused of casting dark spells. In reality, she was trying to guide ships to safety. The Island of Hoy, part of the Orkney Islands, depicted in an undated water colour by Edward Dayes (Picture: Sepia Times/Universal Images Group Editorial) Today, there’s a stone slab memorial at Gallow Ha, etched and engraved with their names. You can visit the site on the Witches of Orkney Guided Walking Tour (£15), alongside the old Kirkwall Castle and former Tolbooth. The tour also stops at the exteriors of Romanesque St Magnus Cathedral and the Earl’s Palace. Across from the cathedral, the Orkney Museum houses ‘Ragna’, the Viking farmer, who came to Orkney from Arctic Norway in 859 AD. @ontheroadagaintravels AD @VisitScotland Orkney Mini Guide (save for later) 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿✨ Located off the northeast coast of mainland Scotland, Orkney is a place so rich in history, people and natural beauty. It’s incredible how much brilliance is packed into one place. Here’s our mini guide for a place with so much to experience… Stay: As always accommodation is so important to us and Orkney has blown us away with Orkney Retreats and Orkney Lux Lodges ✨ Orkney Retreats – Kilnbarn Cottage is a magical retreat on the beautiful island of Sanday. The Danish “Hygge” style interiors and breathtaking sea views make this a place you never want to leave 🌊 Orkney Lux Lodges – Located in the heart of Stromness, Orkney Lux Lodges are stylish and cosy with amazing views of the harbour and neighbouring island of Hoy. Their amazing spa decks feature hot tubs and stargazing deck chairs 💫 Do: Visit Sanday via Orkney Ferries – Hire e-bikes from the Sanday Community Shop to explore the island. We’d recommend visiting the Heritage Centre, Craft Hub and Kirstie Bruce Ceramics. Also check out the the stunning beaches of Sanday including Whitemill Bay and the dunes at Tresness 🏖 Mull Head coastal walk with Wild Orkney Walks 🦋 Tour the iconic Highland Park whisky distillery 🥃 Tour the excavation at Ness of Brodgar (seasonal) 🔨 Visit the iconic Skara Brae, an incredible stone-built Neolithic village 🪨 See: St Magnus Cathedral ✨ The Ring of Brodgar 💫 Scapa Beach 🌊 Yesnaby Cliffs 😍 Italian chapel 💒 Eat: @59° Degrees North Helgi’s, Twenty One, The Storehouse Restaurant Adam’s Place 🍴 Coffee: Twenty One and Archive Coffee ☕️ Transport: @NorthLink Ferries from Scrabster to Stromness and Orkney Ferries for inter-island ferry transport 🛳 #ScotlandIsCalling#VisitScotland#spiritofthehighlandsandislands#visitorkney ♬ Dream Away – Attom The museum has transformed Ragna into the UK’s first AI-powered Viking character — the last thing you’d expect in a landscape that feels like time forgot Her role? To tell you what Viking life was like in Orkney. A thriving food and drink scene Few people know it, but Orkney is culinary heaven. Local produce is abundant here, from world-renowned Orkney beef to North Ronaldsay lamb (the salty taste comes from their seaweed-only diet). Orkney has a dark history of witch trials and is has prehistoric settlements often described as ‘Scottish Pompeii’ (Picture: Getty Images) Of course, being surrounded by the North Sea and Atlantic Ocean means the seafood is as fresh as you can get. Expect hand-dived scallops, crab, and lobster. Orkney cheddar, Bere meal (an ancient grain), and Pattie Suppers are also island staples. The latter consists of mince, tattie and onion mixed, battered and deep-fried — a legendary chippy favourite. Cleanse your palette with some Highland Park whisky, one of the oldest and most northern Scotch distilleries. Beer fans should try ‘Skull Splitter,’ the Viking-inspired, rich, deep amber ale from the team at Orkney Brewery. Beaches for days Scottish beaches may have infiltrated your Instagram algorithm after the North Coast 500 went viral a few years ago. Inganess Bay on the Orkney Islands (Picture: Alamy Stock Photo) And while not technically part of that route, Orkney beaches deserve their flowers. The islands boast miles of pristine, white-sand coastline, from Caribbean-like dunes on the isles of Sanday and Stronsay, to Scapa Beach on the mainland, which features a nearby shipwreck you can swim out to. The best part? They rarely get crowded. Getting to Orkney Travel like Tony Wheeler and take the Caledonian Sleeper train (seats start from £75) from London Euston to Edinburgh. Then it’s three more trains via Perth and Inverness to Thurso. Take a NorthLink ferry from Scrabster (near Thurso) to Stromness in Orkney. An adult foot passenger ticket costs £29 in low season, and £44.50 in peak season.