Any guesses? (Picture: Sadie Whitelocks) When I send photos from my latest hiking adventure to a friend, his reply is immediate: ‘Are you in the Dolomites?’ It’s an easy mistake to make. The pictures show jagged peaks, sweeping valleys and brilliant blue skies, exactly the kind of scenery you’d expect to find in northern Italy. But there’s one giveaway that I’m somewhere else: there’s barely another tourist. I’m actually in Albania, deep in the Albanian Alps, also known as the Accursed Mountains – and there isn’t a gondola, Aperol terrace or selfie stick in sight. Albania has rapidly become one of Europe’s hottest destinations, primarily for its cheap beach resorts. But this year, it has found itself in the headlines for reasons far removed from its golden sands. A luxury development linked to Donald Trump’s son-in-law Jared Kushner has sparked widespread protests in the country, thrusting Albania’s spectacular coastline and political battles into the international spotlight. Yet further north, all is quiet. Truly spectacular: the Accursed Mountains have trails to suit every hiker (Picture: Sadie Whitelocks) The Albanian Alps spill across Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro, forming a rugged wilderness of soaring limestone mountains, cavernous valleys and glacial lakes. It feels a world away from the busy trails of the Dolomites. So, to escape the crowds, I sign up for a seven-day Balkans Three Peak Challenge, taking in some of the region’s highest summits. Our first target is Mount Korab, at 2,764 metres, the highest mountain in both Albania and North Macedonia. After landing in the capital Tirana, we drive north towards the mountains, where we settle into a surprisingly cosy mountain lodge. Korab? Completed it (Picture: Sadie Whitelocks) I had visions of basic bunk rooms and cold showers. Instead, there are comfortable alpine-style rooms, and a welcome discovery that Albania remains wonderfully affordable. A local Korça beer costs roughly £1, while dinner is a feast of Albanian comfort food: flaky byrek filled with meat, cheese or spinach, stuffed peppers known as speca të mbushura, and flija, a traditional layered pancake-like dish made by baking thin layers of batter with cream or yoghurt. It’s carb-loading, Balkan style. The next morning, our group of 16 sets off for Korab. We’re from the UK, US, Australia and New Zealand, but quickly unite with the same reaction: why haven’t more people discovered this place? People from all around the world united by a wonderful discovery (Picture: Sadie Whitelocks) Our guide, Roy Petrofski, has climbed around the world and spent two years guiding in Alaska. Yet he was drawn back to the Balkans, his homeland. It doesn’t take long to understand why. The air is cool and pine-scented. Wildflowers embroider the slopes and the trail is remarkably clean. Rather than stepping over cigarette butts and sweet wrappers, Roy points out wild strawberries and delicate forget-me-nots. There are only a handful of other hikers around. Mostly, our companions are cows and the occasional shepherd. After several hours of climbing, we reach the summit of Korab, where Albania and North Macedonia unfurl beneath us. We eat lunch surrounded by mountains before beginning the descent. A dip in an ice-cold swimming hole is the perfect reward, followed by – naturally – another £1 beer. Korca claims to be the first and only 100% Albanian beer, and at £1, you can’t go wrong (Picture: Sadie Whitelocks) There’s little time to linger, though. That evening, we cross into Kosovo and spend the night in the historic town of Gjakova, home to one of the country’s oldest and longest traditional bazaars. The next day brings Gjeravica, Kosovo’s highest mountain at 2,656 metres. From here, the trail gets more remote. We’re largely on foot, hiking between mountain guesthouses each night. The scenery is spectacular, but it’s the berries that steal the show. Blueberries carpet the ground, and we see local women picking them with young children in tow. It’s an idyllic glimpse of mountain life that feels far removed from Europe’s tourist hotspots. Then come the lakes. The Accursed Mountains are dotted with high-altitude glacial pools, many of which make irresistible swimming spots. Roy tells us his Hike & Swim trips have become increasingly popular as wild swimming takes off. This place is home to some of Europe’s most glaciated peaks after the Swiss Alps (Picture: Sadie Whitelocks) We put the idea into practice, cooling off with a swim before and after reaching Gjeravica. The temperatures are pushing into the high 20s, so the icy water is less punishment, more salvation. That evening, we arrive at the Gacaferi Guest House, run by Safete Gacaferi and her family.  A birthday in our group gives us an excuse for a particularly extravagant dinner, with a flavoursome rice dish proving so popular that several people go back for thirds. We’re going to need the calories. The following day is our longest, with more than 20km of hiking ahead. Part of the route follows the Peaks of the Balkans, a 192km circular trail through the remote mountain region spanning Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro. It’s busier than some of the trails we’ve tackled so far, but ‘busy’ here is a relative term. Right across the mountains, there is barely a tourist in sight (Picture: Sadie Whitelocks) At one point we stop at a shepherd’s hut, where a local man serves us coffee and blueberry cake. The views from his humble home are extraordinary. At our next lodge, breakfast comes with another winning rice-based dish: rice pudding. Then it’s time for Zla Kolata, Montenegro’s highest peak at 2,534 metres. Roy and fellow guide Igli Xhafaj warn us this could be our toughest summit yet, with steep sections and scrambling near the top. We set off confidently. Then, without warning, the weather changes. Clouds roll in and rain begins to fall. With the summit still ahead, Roy and Igli make the sensible decision to turn us around. Bragging rights are not worth the danger. Back at the lodge, we celebrate another day in the mountains. Later, the clouds clear and the night sky explodes with stars. More on walking holidays from Metro I spent 3 days walking in the UK countryside – without my phone Europe just got a new camino that crosses 1,500km over six regions Hiking over hangovers: Why Gen Z is opting for a different kind of holiday I walked Spain’s lesser-known camino — it surprised me in the best way Sitting outside, I think about what I expected from my Balkan adventure. Certainly not this. I’d expected mountains, but not landscapes that could rival the Dolomites. I hadn’t expected such empty trails, generous hosts, extraordinary food or swimming in glacial lakes in the middle of a hiking day. And perhaps the biggest surprise is how little the region feels like a European tourist destination – for now. I even manage to leave my hiking shoes at our final lodge. Perhaps it was a subconscious attempt to ensure I have to come back for them. I certainly wouldn’t complain. The essentials Ryanair operates regular flights from London Stansted to Tirana, while Premier Inn London Stansted Airport offers a convenient and affordable option for an overnight stay before an early flight. The Balkans Three Peak Challenge can be booked through Much Better Adventures.