Portland’s 25 best dishes of 2025

Professionally speaking, my most optimistic moment of 2025 came near the start of the year. It was January, during a review meal at a little-known pop-up called Ancestro, and the simple, graceful menu of Mexican-inspired brunch dishes that Leticia and Marco Escamilla made that chilly morning warmed me from the inside out. If the Escamillas could make food this pretty, this tasty, this honest ...